Wednesday, January 05, 2005

Restaurant review

Ma Cuisine - Kew, West London

Other reviews here, here, here.
This is the third of John McClements’ restaurants in the area. He has the well received Michelin starred McClements and another Ma Cuisine bistro.

Lunch for 2 = £35, with Evian water, and a glass of wine.

I had Toulouse sausages to start, followed by a selection of charcuterie and a vanilla creme brulee. The sausages were meaty but not too dry, and the creme brulee was perfect, if a little large! The charcuterie was excellent: petit salad with cornichons, a slice of salami, prosciutto type ham, a ham terrine, a duck, pork and foie gras terrine, and a slice of foie gras ballotine. The ham terrine (set with a clear jelly) was flavoursome and moist, and the richness of the foie gras provided for a filling meal. Unfortunately the plastic wrap used to cook and set the ballotine was left on, for which they didn’t charge for the coffee (average Lavazza espresso) and one dessert.

From the set menu (£14.50 3 courses) Mum had ham terrine (same as for the assiette charcuterie, served with a reduced balsamic vinegar sauce and petit salad), coq au vin (with potato dauphinoise and green beans in butter), and pear tart. The coq au vin was good, if a little dry in places, and the potato and beans excellent. The hot pear tart tasted only faintly of pears.

Overall, good value for money, very good food, slightly let down by lax service (a bit slow, missing serviettes, messed up orders). The decor is also a bit rough in places but this ought not detract from the food. I think the kitchen is on pretty much the same level as the nearby Glasshouse which charges twice as much for more elaborate food (my review here).


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